Detoxing Your Hair

Detoxing Your Hair

October 12th, 2022

​Products like shampoo, conditioners and styling aids add shine and manageability, but they also build up on our hair over time. The results of this build up are brittle hair, discoloration (especially on lighter strands), frizz and tougher tangles. Minerals that collect in our tap water compound this problem. To avoid them, you should be detoxing your hair anywhere from once a week to once a month. Frequency should be based on things like your water's impact on your hair, whether you color your hair and whether you expose your hair to chemicals frequently, for example, via chlorine in swimming pools. Below we share ingredients that are common in hair products that need to be detoxed, and which ones refresh your hair best when it comes to removing build up. You can learn more about the detox process and products in my post Hair Challenges Part II: Build Up.

Build Up Culprit: Silicone
Silicone is a synthetic ingredient with properties similar to plastic. There are non-soluble and soluble formulas, with the latter being water-based and easier to wash out. The former protects your hair better from heat styling via a protective coating, but that same coating also seals out water and air. Over time, you'll need a detox method for stripping out the residue these products leave behind. Keep in mind that not all consumers can use completely silicone-free products, and, when used properly alongside a detox regimen, they can have many benefits. Use the list below to check what ingredients your current products have.

Ingredients in Hair Products with Silicone

Detox May Not Be Needed ​(Easier to Rinse Out)	Detox May Be Needed (Less Rinsable)	Detox is Needed (Hard to Rinse Out)
Bis-peg/ppg-16/16 peg/ppg-16/16 (This is an emulsifier - not for shine or lubrication) Dimethicone copolyol DEA PG-Propyl PEG/PPG-18/21 Dimethicone Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate Dimethicone-PG Diethylmonium Chloride Hydrolyzed Silk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol Crosspolymer Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane Hydrolyzed Wheat protein/hydroxypropyl polysiloxane and cystine/silicone co-polymers Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Silanetriol Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol PEG-40/PPG-8 Methylaminopropyl/Hydropropyl Dimethicone Copolymer PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone PEG-12 Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone PPG-8 Methylaminopropyl, Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Copolymer PEG-7 Amodimethicone PEG-8 Disteramonium Chloride PG-Dimethicone PEG-33 (and) PEG-8 Dimethicone (and) PEG-14 Silanetriol Silicone Quaternium-8 ​ ​	Silicone Quaternium-17  Lauryl Methicone Copolyol Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine  Amino-modified and or  polymer-type silicones: Amodimethicone Dimethicone  Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone   Propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone  Silicone Quaternium-16  Silicone Quaternium-18  Silicone Quaternium-22 Silylamodimethicone Evaporates​ Cyclomethicone Cyclomethiconal (Cyclomethiconel) Cyclopentasiloxane Hexamethyldisiloxan ​ ​ ​	Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone Bis-isobutyl Peg/Ppg-20/35/Amodimethicone Copolymer  Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone Bis-Hydroxy/Methoxy Amodimethicone Cetyl Dimethicone Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl Ether Dimethicone Cyclomethicon Cyclopentasiloxane Cyclopentasiloxane and C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer Cyclohexasiloxane Dimethicone/Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer Dimethicone Divynildimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer Dimethiconol Dimethiconol meadowfoamate Di-Isostearoyl Trimethylolpropane Siloxy Silicate Diphenyl Dimethicone Disiloxane Trimethylsiloxysilicate PCA Dimethicone Phenyl Trimethicon Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate ​Aminopropyl triethoxysilane Behenoxy Dimethicone Cetearyl methicone Bis-Amino PEG/PPG-41/3 Aminoethyl PG-Propyl  Polysilicone-18 Cetyl Phosphate Silicone Resin Spheres Simethicone Simethicone Stearoxy (or Stearyl) Dimethicone Trimethyl  Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone Trimethylsiloxysilicate Trisiloxane Hexamethyldisiloxane ​

Source: Science-y Hair Blog: Silicone Ingredient Solubility List

Detox May Not Be Needed (Easier to Rinse Out)

Bis-peg/ppg-16/16 peg/ppg-16/16 (This is an emulsifier - not for shine or lubrication) Dimethicone copolyol DEA PG-Propyl PEG/PPG-18/21 Dimethicone Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate Dimethicone-PG Diethylmonium Chloride Hydrolyzed Silk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol Crosspolymer Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane Hydrolyzed Wheat protein/hydroxypropyl polysiloxane and cystine/silicone co-polymers Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Silanetriol Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol PEG-40/PPG-8 Methylaminopropyl/Hydropropyl Dimethicone Copolymer PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone PEG-12 Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone PPG-8 Methylaminopropyl, Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Copolymer PEG-7 Amodimethicone PEG-8 Disteramonium Chloride PG-Dimethicone PEG-33 (and) PEG-8 Dimethicone (and) PEG-14 Silanetriol Silicone Quaternium-8 Bis-peg/ppg-16/16 peg/ppg-16/16 (This is an emulsifier - not for shine or lubrication) Dimethicone copolyol DEA PG-Propyl PEG/PPG-18/21 Dimethicone Dimethicone PEG-8 Phosphate Dimethicone-PG Diethylmonium Chloride Hydrolyzed Silk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol Crosspolymer Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane Hydrolyzed Wheat protein/hydroxypropyl polysiloxane and cystine/silicone co-polymers Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG-Silanetriol Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol PEG-40/PPG-8 Methylaminopropyl/Hydropropyl Dimethicone Copolymer PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone PEG-12 Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone PPG-8 Methylaminopropyl, Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Copolymer PEG-7 Amodimethicone PEG-8 Disteramonium Chloride PG-Dimethicone PEG-33 (and) PEG-8 Dimethicone (and) PEG-14 Silanetriol Silicone Quaternium-8

Detox May Be Needed (Less Rinsable)

Silicone Quaternium-17  Lauryl Methicone Copolyol * Dimethicone Propyl PG-Betaine  Amino-modified and or  polymer-type silicones: * Amodimethicone Dimethicone  * Bis-Aminopropyl Dimethicone   * Propoxytetramethyl piperidinyl dimethicone  * Silicone Quaternium-16  * Silicone Quaternium-18  * Silicone Quaternium-22 Silylamodimethicone Evaporates​ Cyclomethicone Cyclomethiconal (Cyclomethiconel) Cyclopentasiloxane Hexamethyldisiloxan

Detox is Needed (Hard to Rinse Out)

​​Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone Bis-isobutyl Peg/Ppg-20/35/Amodimethicone Copolymer  Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone Bis-Hydroxy/Methoxy Amodimethicone Cetyl Dimethicone Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl Ether Dimethicone Cyclomethicon Cyclopentasiloxane Cyclopentasiloxane and C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer Cyclohexasiloxane Dimethicone/Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer Dimethicone Divynildimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer Dimethiconol Dimethiconol meadowfoamate Di-Isostearoyl Trimethylolpropane Siloxy Silicate Diphenyl Dimethicone Disiloxane Trimethylsiloxysilicate PCA Dimethicone Phenyl Trimethicon Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate ​Aminopropyl triethoxysilane Behenoxy Dimethicone Cetearyl methicone Bis-Amino PEG/PPG-41/3 Aminoethyl PG-Propyl  Polysilicone-18 Cetyl Phosphate Silicone Resin Spheres Simethicone Simethicone Stearoxy (or Stearyl) Dimethicone Trimethyl  Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone Trimethylsiloxysilicate Trisiloxane Hexamethyldisiloxane

Source: Science-y Hair Blog: Silicone Ingredient Solubility List

Build Up Culprit: Minerals
Minerals in our tap water are extremely common. According to a post by the Science-y Hair Blog titled "Hard Water and Your Hair: "Calcium and magnesium ions (an ion is a mineral with an electric charge) are the most common minerals in water. It is minerals that give water its hardness. Those minerals come from aquifers - porous stones through which water flows - or are picked up in streams and rivers". The U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) lists common minerals found in tap water to include Sodium, Calcium, Magnesium, Potassium, Chloride and Bicarbonate. It has also been noted that well water can have a higher level of these minerals.

Effects of Minerals on Your Hair

• Frizz
• Stiffness
• Dullness
• Increased hair porosity, leading to lower absorption of conditioners and oils
• Breakage, which can inhibit hair growth 
• Discoloration, such as brassy/reddish tones (caused by copper and chlorine) or gray/green tones (caused by iron and magnesium)

Source: Science-y Hair Blog: Hard Water and Your Hair, "Bye Bye Bye" Build Up: Timothy Pamment Salon

If your hair is already damaged from services like color, perms or relaxers, minerals will bond to it even more. Without a detox regimen a vicious cycle forms, where minerals increase the rate of damage to your hair over time by sealing out air and moisture. 

Detox Methods

The two most common detox methods are clarifying shampoos and pre art treatments. Ingredients commonly found in these products include:

• Disodium EDTA (Ethylamine Diamine Tetraacetic Acid) 
• Pentasoidum Pentetate
• Sodium phytate
• Phytic acid
• Citric acid (needs large enough quantity to be effective)

Below is a high-level comparison of how they're commonly used, but always defer to the guidance given on a product's packaging. 
​​

Method	​General Application Guidelines *
Clarifying Shampoo (aka Detoxing Shampoo)	Wash your hair with these products anywhere from once a week to once every 6 weeks, depending on their potency and your hair's needs
Pre Art Treatements	Apply the product to your hair, cover your hair with a plastic cap, leave on for 10 - 20 minutes while sitting under heat (for heavier build up, usually done at the salon) or allow to process at room temperature,  rinse product out then shampoo plus condition

* Always Check Usage Guidelines on Packaging

Method	Clarifying Shampoo (aka Detoxing Shampoo)
General Application Guidelines *	Wash your hair with these products anywhere from once a week to once every 6 weeks, depending on their potency and your hair's needs

Method	Pre Art Treatments
General Application Guidelines *	Apply the product to your hair, cover your hair with a plastic cap, leave on for 10 - 20 minutes while sitting under heat (for heavier build up, usually done at the salon) or allow to process at room temperature,  rinse product out then shampoo plus condition

* Always Check Usage Guidelines on Packaging

​Related blog posts:
Hair Challenges Part I
Hair Challenges Part II
​How Often Should I Shampoo?