Face Shape Guide

March 29th, 2023

We've always been conflicted about the concept of face shapes and what we'll refer to as the "face shape rules". On the one hand, hairstylists use face shape rules to help methodically plan which haircuts will work best on a client. On the other, it's common for them to see haircuts that theoretically shouldn't have worked on a certain face shape, but in practice did. For example, we had a stylist share the following story with us:

"I once had a client with a round face. She really wanted bangs, but I hesitated to give them to her because based on the face shape rules they would accentuate her features unfavorably. However, during one visit she became determined to try them. So I gave her bangs, fearing the whole time that she would hate them when I was done. For some reason, they just worked on her face and she loved them. What's more, she kept bangs for years afterwards, so they became an important staple of her look despite the fact that they broke one of the face shape rules."

We're sharing this story as an example because we'd like you to use the Face Shape Guide for haircut suggestions, but to be aware that all of these rules can and have been been broken. When using it, think of your face in two sections: (1) upper face and (2) lower face. Doing this will help you understand if you have characteristics from two different face shapes, which is common. Also, remember that the real world is 3D and the shapes below are 2D, which means they can only tell you about the portrait of your face. The missing components that also need to be considered are profile (the shape of your face from the side), plus nose and forehead protrusion. In addition, your personal preferences will be a factor when deciding how to use a haircut to balance your facial features. By the end of this post, you'll know a bit more about your face shape and how to accentuate your features to look your best.

Oval
This face shape resembles an oval, which is an elongated circle. Unlike diamond, heart, or triangle face shapes, it's proportional from the upper to lower face (temple to temple = ear to ear = jowl to jowl) and accommodates a variety of haircut styles. Due to this, we highly encourage you to evolve your look over time. Why? Because you can. For your next haircut, focus on one feature and frame that. For example, if you like your eyes, try a bang that is eyebrow length and blunt or textured (see my Bangs Hair Guide). The face shape rules recommend avoiding making an oval face appear too long, which volume and long hair can contribute to.

Dimensions: This face shape is slightly longer than it is wide.
Upper Face: The forehead is longer (hairline to eyebrow) than it is wide (temple to temple).
Lower Face: The jaw is narrower than the cheek bones.
Face Shape Rule Suggestions: Bangs and/or short to shoulder length haircuts.
Celebrities with this Face Shape: Liv Tyler, Jake Gyllenhaal

Round
This face shape resembles a circle. We've found that most people think they have this face shape, but it's quite rare to have a face that is truly round. This is where 2D shapes can be misleading in a 3D world. For example, it may be true that your face is fullest at the cheeks, however, most faces are not proportionally as long as they are wide. Additionally, cheeks can be full at the front or at the sides of the face. Here, 2D shapes can only only describe “outwards”, which can be confusing. The point we're stressing is that a round cheek does not always indicate a round face shape.

Dimensions: Face length and width are proportional.
Upper Face: Round wide hairline (temple to temple). Fullest in the cheek bones.
Lower Face: A rounded jaw that is only slightly narrower than the cheekbones.
Face Shape Rule Suggestions: Long haircuts (below the collarbone or longer) with long layers. Avoid bangs.
Celebrities with this Face Shape: Ginnifer Goodwin, Kanye West

Square
This face shape resembles a square, and is characterized by a wide hairline and jawline. Just like with the round face shape, it is rare to have a truly square shape, and is common to see the upper half of the face belonging to another face shape aside from square. Depending on your hair texture, go with haircuts that are broken up as opposed to blunt cuts. This can contrast the sharpness square features tend to have. Since this face shape is proportionate in length and width, consider asymmetrical styles. For example, a side bang framing your eyes. Generally, square face shapes should avoid straight lines near their jaw and forehead. Haircuts that have this effect include straight across bangs and bobs.

Dimensions: Face length and width are proportional.
Upper Face: Sharp wide hairline.
Lower Face: Sharper jaw slightly wider than cheekbones.
Face Shape Rule Suggestions: Long haircuts (below the collarbone or longer) with deep side parts, feathered texture and soft bangs.
Celebrities with this Face Shape: Margot Robbie, Oliver Cheshire

Diamond
This face shape most resembles a diamond. It's narrowest at the top and bottom, and fullest in the cheekbone area, with cheekbones tending to be an accentuated feature. Bangs and short hair are a must try for someone with a diamond shaped face, but there are no limits to the lengths and textures that will work. The cheekbones on this face shape make it ideal for short haircuts (ex: pixie cuts). Longer haircuts help to elongate the face if that's your goal. Voluminous hair styles also work well and help show off the cheekbones.

Dimensions: Face is slightly longer than it is wide.
Upper Face: Narrow forehead (temple to temple) with fullest point of the face at the cheekbones.
Lower Face: Narrow chin.
Face Shape Rule Suggestions: All lengths work, but short hair accentuates the cheek bones. Bangs will work.
Celebrities with this Face Shape: Naomi Campbell, Ryan Reynolds

Heart
This face shape most resembles a heart, and is characterized by a wide round forehead plus a pointed narrow chin. The upper half of the face is the fullest, with the contrast between the rounded forehead and pointy chin being most notable. Side-swept bangs help minimize the width of the forehead. On haircuts with no bangs, a center part pairs best with any length. Keeping the style fuller around the jaw helps to balance the narrower chin. This is best done with bob haircuts. If you have long hair, and the idea of trying a bob scares you, try a collarbone length haircut first, which also work well on this face shape. If your hairline has a widow's peak, it will enhance the heart shape.

Dimensions: This face shape is slightly longer than it is wide.
Upper Face: Wider forehead.
Lower Face: Narrow chin.
Face Shape Rule Suggestions: Bobs or shoulder length haircuts with side-swept bangs. With no bangs, a middle part looks best.
Celebrities with this Face Shape: Olsen Twins, Lucky Blue Smith

Triangle
This face shape most resembles a triangle, and is also referred to as the pear shape. It's widest on the lower half of the face at the bottom and narrowest on the upper half of the face at the top. The forehead also tends to be shorter (hairline to eyebrow), which is why bangs are generally not recommended. If you really want bangs, start them further back on your head near the crown and style them smoothed down on your forehead. For this face shape, a small forehead and wider jaw usually call for enhancing focus on the forehead and minimizing focus on the jaw. Longer haircuts help balance out the jaw with the rest of the face, while shorter haircuts are not recommended because they do the opposite. Styling for volume at your roots also helps balance out the upper half of the face with the lower half.

Dimensions: This face shape is slightly longer than it is wide.
Upper Face: Small narrow forehead.
Lower Face: Wide jaw line.
Face Shape Rule Suggestions: Haircuts that are shoulder length or longer. Avoid cuts that are chin length or shorter, and bangs.
Celebrities with this Face Shape: Minnie Driver, David Gandy

Oblong
This face shape resembles a mix between a rectangle and an oval. The cheekbones' prominence tends to be situated at the front of the face as opposed to the sides. Since this face is already long, avoid haircuts that give the illusion of lengthening the face. Longer haircuts and styles with volume will have this affect. If you prefer longer hair, shorter layers around the face can help provide balance. Shorter haircuts, like bobs, are the most effective at balancing the length and width of the face out. Bangs cut straight across (see my Bangs Hair Guide) that end at the eyebrows will also help with this.

Dimensions: This face shape's length (hairline to chin) is almost twice its width (ear to ear).
Upper Face: Wider forehead and cheekbones.
Lower Face: Smaller rounded jaw.
Face Shape Rule Suggestions: Chin length haircuts work best, along with straight across bangs. Avoid longer haircuts and voluminous styles.
Celebrities with this Face Shape: Olivia Wilde, Eric Rutherford