Formaldehyde-free Straighteners
Formaldehyde-free Straighteners
Author: Jenna White | San Francisco Hairstylist
March 22nd, 2022
March 22nd, 2022
By making smooth, manageable hair attainable, hair straightening services have become a popular practice in salons around the world. However, we have seen the European Union (EU) applying regulations to these services, and historically they've been the first to sense and react to consumer use of harmful chemicals. In this post, I wanted to sort through some of the marketing hype, plus regulations in the EU and US, to take a closer look at things consumers should consider when receiving formaldehyde-free straightening services.
Before we jump in, I want to make sure to clarify that in this post when referencing "formaldehyde-free straighteners" I am discussing non-permanent/temporary straighteners. These straighteners are applied as a coating to the hair that smooths/straightens it, but eventually washes out over time, allowing the hair to return to its natural texture. Permanent hair straightening solutions break and reshape the bonds in your hair, and do not allow it to return to its natural texture. As your hair grows out, your roots will have the natural texture, while wherever the permanent straightener was applied will remain the newly shaped texture. Permanent hair straightening solutions do not contain formaldehyde, while non-permanent hair straightening solutions have historically been known to contain or release formaldehyde. Many brands in the latter category have attempted to adjust their formulas to significantly reduce or eliminate formaldehyde and/or related ingredients.
Additionally, the level of "straightening" that can be achieved by non-permanent straighteners is dependent on several factors. These include the type of product used, how it is mixed, the application process and the angle of the hair during the final stages of the service when the coating is sealed with a flat iron. Therefore, a client can aim for a "smoother" look to their hair, or a "straighter" look to their hair, depending on their preference. For this post, I'll refer to the service as a non-permanent straightener, but wanted to be sure to point out this out for anyone who is not familiar with the service.
Also, want to give a shout out to my fellow SF stylist Blair, @thermal_reconditioning_sf on Instagram, for giving me feedback on this post and helping to shape the content you're reading here!
Before we jump in, I want to make sure to clarify that in this post when referencing "formaldehyde-free straighteners" I am discussing non-permanent/temporary straighteners. These straighteners are applied as a coating to the hair that smooths/straightens it, but eventually washes out over time, allowing the hair to return to its natural texture. Permanent hair straightening solutions break and reshape the bonds in your hair, and do not allow it to return to its natural texture. As your hair grows out, your roots will have the natural texture, while wherever the permanent straightener was applied will remain the newly shaped texture. Permanent hair straightening solutions do not contain formaldehyde, while non-permanent hair straightening solutions have historically been known to contain or release formaldehyde. Many brands in the latter category have attempted to adjust their formulas to significantly reduce or eliminate formaldehyde and/or related ingredients.
Additionally, the level of "straightening" that can be achieved by non-permanent straighteners is dependent on several factors. These include the type of product used, how it is mixed, the application process and the angle of the hair during the final stages of the service when the coating is sealed with a flat iron. Therefore, a client can aim for a "smoother" look to their hair, or a "straighter" look to their hair, depending on their preference. For this post, I'll refer to the service as a non-permanent straightener, but wanted to be sure to point out this out for anyone who is not familiar with the service.
Also, want to give a shout out to my fellow SF stylist Blair, @thermal_reconditioning_sf on Instagram, for giving me feedback on this post and helping to shape the content you're reading here!
What is formaldehyde?
Formaldehyde is defined by the American Cancer Society as "a strong-smelling, colorless gas used in making building materials and many household products".
Why is formaldehyde used in some non-permanent hair straightening services?
Your hair is essentially made up of dead cells. Blood vessels at the root of the hair follicle provide nutrients to make the strand grow, but, once it leaves your scalp, the cells that strand is made up of are no longer alive. That means everything you do to your hair after it leaves your scalp is either preserving or deteriorating its state. Formaldehyde is used in products as a preservative to prevent the growth of bacteria. It is also used by funeral homes for the embalming process, which is defined by Wikipedia as "the art and science of preserving human remains by treating them (in its modern form with chemicals) to forestall decomposition", with its job being to sanitize, present and preserve. The New York Times published an interesting article back in 2011 titled "Despite Risk, Embalmers Still Embrace Preservative" where many funeral home business owners swore by formaldehyde, despite the potential health risks it exposed them to. There has been pressure on the chemical industry to invent alternatives up to the present day.
What are common names of non-permanent straighteners that use the term "formaldehyde-free" in their marketing?
Some of these include:
- Keratin Treatment
- Brazilian Blowout
- Hair Botox
What makes non-permanent hair straighteners desirable?
Both permanent and non-permanent hair straightening services make thick and/or curly hair easier to blowdry and manage. This can cut a morning routine's time in half, and let people juggle more priorities as a result. Some describe these services as "life changing" and claim they cannot go without touch ups and continue to effectively manage their schedule and/or appearance. The added benefit of non-permanent hair straighteners is that they are less of a commitment than permanent straighteners and can be used on preprocessed hair (ex: hair that has been colored or highlighted). Below is a comparison of a non-permanent and permanent hair straightening solutions for further context.
Non-Permanent Example Keratin Treatment |
Permanent Example Thermal Reconditioning/Japanese Straightening |
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Non-Permanent Example Keratin Treatment |
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Permanent Example Thermal Reconditioning (aka Japanese Straightening) |
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Does the US and/or EU regulate products that release formaldahyde?
In November of 2019, formaldehyde was delisted in EU Cosmetics Regulation No 1223/2009, which means it was "added to the list of substances prohibited in cosmetic products". However, formaldehyde releasers and related ingredients are still able to be used in cosmetics in the EU. Despite being first movers on noting potentially adverse reactions to non-permanent hair straighteners, Europe's threshold for the amount of formaldehyde products can release, measured in parts per million (ppm) by volume, is five times higher than what the US's leading research organizations recognize as a health hazard. A study conducted by the EU-based Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety (SCCS) in May of 2021 advised that the current EU threshold of 500 ppm be lowered to 10 ppm to address the "sufficient evidence that the present warning threshold limit of 500 ppm is insufficient to protect formaldehyde-sensitive subjects from elicitation of ACD by FR-containing cosmetic products". In other words, lowering the amount would ensure that the vast majority of people, including those sensitive to formaldehyde gases, would be protected.
The US has historically been slower to react to potentially harmful chemicals in consumer products, with one notable example being that it took 38 years to ban lead-based paint after most of Europe had. The same appears to be true for non-permanent hair straighteners, with there technically being no rules around the amount of formaldehyde they can release. This is partly because workplace safety in general, including air quality issues, is regulated by the Occupational Health and Safety Administration (OSHA), not the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which sets the rules and regulations for product safety. Non-permanent hair straightening products used in the salon are not deemed consumer retail products because they require certification from the manufacturer plus a cosmetology or barbering license to acquire and use them, which removes them from the FDA's oversight. Below is a comparison of the European Commission's current threshold, the SCCS's recommended adjustment to the EU threshold, and levels recognized as dangerous by OSHA, the National Cancer Institute (NCI) and the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH). The takeaway I'd like people to have from the chart is that the EU and US have vastly different opinions on the amount of formaldehyde that is unsafe.
The US has historically been slower to react to potentially harmful chemicals in consumer products, with one notable example being that it took 38 years to ban lead-based paint after most of Europe had. The same appears to be true for non-permanent hair straighteners, with there technically being no rules around the amount of formaldehyde they can release. This is partly because workplace safety in general, including air quality issues, is regulated by the Occupational Health and Safety Administration (OSHA), not the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which sets the rules and regulations for product safety. Non-permanent hair straightening products used in the salon are not deemed consumer retail products because they require certification from the manufacturer plus a cosmetology or barbering license to acquire and use them, which removes them from the FDA's oversight. Below is a comparison of the European Commission's current threshold, the SCCS's recommended adjustment to the EU threshold, and levels recognized as dangerous by OSHA, the National Cancer Institute (NCI) and the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH). The takeaway I'd like people to have from the chart is that the EU and US have vastly different opinions on the amount of formaldehyde that is unsafe.
Sources:
- SCIENTIFIC ADVICE ON on the threshold for the warning ‘contains formaldehyde’ in Annex V, preamble point 2 for formaldehyde-releasing substances, Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS)
- Fact Sheet Formaldehyde, Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA)
- Formaldehyde and Cancer Risk, National Cancer Institute (NCI)
Sources:
- SCIENTIFIC ADVICE ON on the threshold for the warning ‘contains formaldehyde’ in Annex V, preamble point 2 for formaldehyde-releasing substances, Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS)
- Fact Sheet Formaldehyde, Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA)
- Formaldehyde and Cancer Risk, National Cancer Institute (NCI)
Why is formaldehyde bad for you?
According to the Formaldehyde Fact Sheet produced by the US Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), some of its adverse effects include:
- Being "a sensitizing agent that can cause an immune system response upon initial exposure"
- Being a "cancer hazard"
- Acute exposure being "highly irritating to the eyes, nose, and throat" plus being able to make "anyone exposed cough and wheeze"
- "Subsequent exposure may cause severe allergic reactions of the skin, eyes and respiratory tract"
- "Ingestion of formaldehyde can be fatal"
- "Long-term exposure to low levels in the air or on the skin can cause asthma-like respiratory problems and skin irritation such as dermatitis and itching"
What are common formaldehyde releasers or ingredients?
- Glyoxylic acid
- Methylene glycol
- Formalin
Are formaldehyde-free straighteners really formaldehyde-free?
In a study conducted in January of 2021 by the European Renal Association (ERA-EDTA), published by Oxford University Press, it was reported that an "analysis of hair straightening products revealed the presence of formaldehyde in 8% of them despite being labeled formaldehyde-free". When heated, products containing formaldehyde can release toxic gas into the air. For example, Glyoxylic Acid, which, according to the popular hair color brand Wella, "is used to adjust the pH of a formulation to ensure a product's pH is at a desired level for product stability and consumer safety", releases formaldehyde when heated to 450 degrees and is commonly found in non-permanent hair straighteners. This release could occur during the use of flat irons or curling irons, which commonly reach temperatures at that level (see my post on Protecting Your Hair From Heat Damage). In addition, heating is part of the non-permanent straightening service process, with one of the final steps being to seal the coating by passing a flat iron over the hair in microscopically thin sections. Heating also occurs when the client blowdries and styles their hair at home during the 6+ weeks the coating lasts.
How should I use/test non-permanent straightening services safely?
- See a professional who is certified by the manufacturer to perform the service.
- If the stylist offers consultations, have one before scheduling the appointment so your hair can be assessed. During the consultation, see if your stylist/barber recommends a skin patch test to ensure you do not have any reactions to the product's chemicals (you may be asked to sign a waver beforehand).
- If opting for at-home keratin kits:
- Check for formaldehyde releasers and/or ingredients on the packaging (may be difficult to identify, could look like list under "common formaldehyde releasers or ingredients" question above).
- Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully, particularly ones referring to patch tests and ventilation during application.
What should I do if I have a topical reaction to a non-permanent hair straightener?
If performed professionally:
If performed via at-home kit:
- Consult with your primary care doctor or dermatologist immediately
- Let your stylist/barber know that you had a reaction, and have been able to connect with your doctor about it
- See if your stylist/barber has any recommendations on how to deal with the reaction, and double check these with your doctor
- Check with your doctor if it is safe to attempt patch tests with other products, and, should you attempt further patch tests, carefully note the products you have adverse reactions to and avoid them
- Ask your stylist/barber who the manufacturer is, whether they will be notifying them, and the best way for you to notify them
If performed via at-home kit:
- Consult with your primary care doctor or dermatologist immediately
- Notify the manufacturer about your reaction, their contact information should be listed on the packaging
- Check with your doctor about whether your reaction was abnormal and warrants notifying the FDA, should you need to contact the FDA you have two options:
- Contact your state's FDA Consumer Complaint Coordinator
- Contact the FDA's MedWatch by phone (1-800-FDA-1088) or online by filing a voluntary report