Hair Challenges Part II
Hair Challenges Part II
Author: Jenna White | San Francisco Hairstylist
December 12th, 2021
December 12th, 2021
Dear readers,
This guide is meant to enlighten you about what is really going on with your hair. Move the hair product marketing aside and step into the mind of a hair professional by learning the science behind your strands, which are fluid and, at times, inconsistent. They can be changed with heat, weather, and chemicals, all agents that can be manipulated to achieve your desired look. As a third-generation hair professional, I'm excited to share this knowledge to give you more control over your hair challenges.
Always,
Jenna
This guide is meant to enlighten you about what is really going on with your hair. Move the hair product marketing aside and step into the mind of a hair professional by learning the science behind your strands, which are fluid and, at times, inconsistent. They can be changed with heat, weather, and chemicals, all agents that can be manipulated to achieve your desired look. As a third-generation hair professional, I'm excited to share this knowledge to give you more control over your hair challenges.
Always,
Jenna
To lay a foundation for the sections below, I want to start with the science behind your hair's structure. This can be a big step in understanding the cause of your hair challenge. Your strands are mostly made up of a keratin protein, which consists of the COHNS elements (Carbon, Oxygen, Hydrogen, Nitrogen and Sulfur). These elements create the following bonds in your hair:
Disulfide bonds can cause permanent change in the hair structure, allowing us to perform services like perms and color. They are also responsible for the hair’s strength. Hydrogen bonds cause temporary change and adjust the hair's shape, for example, during washing and drying. We can use this knowledge to our advantage when styling - weather induced frizz can be reset simply by rinsing with water and styling in a new way. Check out this guide titled "Hair Frizz Science: Water and Hydrogen Bonds" to learn more. The big takeaway I want you to have before jumping into the sections below is this: the further we push the limits of our hair the more challenges we may face.
- hydrogen bonds
- salt bonds
- disulfide bonds
Disulfide bonds can cause permanent change in the hair structure, allowing us to perform services like perms and color. They are also responsible for the hair’s strength. Hydrogen bonds cause temporary change and adjust the hair's shape, for example, during washing and drying. We can use this knowledge to our advantage when styling - weather induced frizz can be reset simply by rinsing with water and styling in a new way. Check out this guide titled "Hair Frizz Science: Water and Hydrogen Bonds" to learn more. The big takeaway I want you to have before jumping into the sections below is this: the further we push the limits of our hair the more challenges we may face.
DESCRIPTION: Hair that lies close to the head and lacks volume. Does not relate to curl patterns or having straight hair.
CAUSES:
THE FIXES:
PRODUCTS
Hold Products: These types of products are often water-based and make hair fuller plus hold/stiffen. There are stronger holds and lighter holds. Stronger holds will freeze the hair in place, and often give it a crunchy feeling. Lighter holds will gently hold the hair in place, and are frequently referred to as "touchable". Visually, the former tend to have a thicker consistency, like a gel, and the latter look like a liquid or foam.
Examples: Gel, Hair Spray, Mousse, Foam, Texture Sprays, Salt Sprays, Settings Sprays, Dry Shampoo
Ingredients:
Sources
CAUSES:
- Shedding/Hair Loss
- Hair type
- Styling technique
THE FIXES:
- Shampoo more frequently, see my guide on How Often Should I Shampoo?
- Apply the techniques in my Post-Work Out Hair guide
- Remove Build Up
- Try shorter hair and blunter haircuts
- Use products with less oil and more hold
PRODUCTS
Hold Products: These types of products are often water-based and make hair fuller plus hold/stiffen. There are stronger holds and lighter holds. Stronger holds will freeze the hair in place, and often give it a crunchy feeling. Lighter holds will gently hold the hair in place, and are frequently referred to as "touchable". Visually, the former tend to have a thicker consistency, like a gel, and the latter look like a liquid or foam.
Examples: Gel, Hair Spray, Mousse, Foam, Texture Sprays, Salt Sprays, Settings Sprays, Dry Shampoo
Ingredients:
- PVP/VA Copolymer (PVP is also known as Polyvinylpyrrolidone)
- Pros: holds well and is water soluble
- Cons: humid weather can make it feel sticky, dry weather can make it brittle and flaky
- PVA
- Pros: holds well in humidity and stays flexible in dry weather
- Cons: none
- Polyurethane
- Pros: can withstand heat and humidity
- Cons: tough to remove from hair after it dries
- Cationic Polymers
- Pros: decreases static and flyaways
- Cons: can potentially irritate your eyes if used frequently
- Polyquaternium-4
- Pros: high curl retention
- Cons: quite stiff and can build up on the hair
- Polyquaternium-11
- Pros: Doubles as a moisturizing agent
- Cons: Not water soluble and more susceptible to humidity than Polyquaternium-4
Sources
- The Secret Science of Hair Gel, Revealed, by NaturallyCurly.com
- What is PVP/VA Copolymer? by EverEscents
- Amphiphilic cationic polymers as effective substances improving the safety of use of body wash gels, International Journal of Biological Macromolecules
- How to Remove Polyurethane From Hair, by Rachael Ambrose