Author: Jenna White | San Francisco Hairstylist
July 26th, 2022
July 26th, 2022
You may need a color correction if you're unhappy with your latest color job. Whether it's a DIY mistake or one caused by a professional, it's stressful to make a change to your hair and then to regret it. Unfortunately, it can be a complex process to reverse a change once it's been made. It's almost always better to have a hair professional conduct your color correction to avoid digging yourself into a deeper hole should a second attempt also fail and require an even more expensive procedure to fix it.
What is a color correction?
There are many services that would fall under this category. When referring to a color correction, most stylists are talking about lightening hair that has been previously colored. Darkening hair that has been lightened can also be considered a color correction if it's done immediately after a lightening procedure that the customer ended up not liking. What makes either of these processes more complex is that after hair has been colored it behaves differently, particularly 1 - 7 days after being colored, which makes altering a color process a customer doesn't like take more effort, skill and time. This is why services deemed a "color correction" are more expensive.
How long does a color correction take?
Several factors can change the how long a color correction will take, including the condition of the hair, what type of color was used to achieve the undesired color and the process the hair professional plans to use to conduct the correction. While most color corrections can be achieved in one day, some hair professionals will suggest conducting a correction over two or three appointments to preserve the health of the hair. Color corrections can wind up being expensive, so it's important to be honest with your stylist about your budget expectations. It's also helpful to understand the process, so I've given a quick breakdown of the two most common correction services below:
Color Correction Dark --> Light
Used for fixing:
Potential Steps in the Process:
Potential Total Time for Service ~ 7 hours
Cons of Dark --> Light Color Corrections
- Orange highlights
- DIY box colors that came out too dark
- Unwanted shades of red or brown
Potential Steps in the Process:
- Initial application of color remover to help break up the hair's pigment (30 minute application and up to 45 minutes processing)
- Wash (10 minutes)
- First application of lightener or bleach, generally done at least once during the process (45 minute application and up to 60 minutes of processing)
- Wash (10 minutes)
- Possible second application of lightener (45 minute application and up to 60 minutes of processing)
- Wash (10 minutes)
- Toner (10 minute application and up to 20 minutes processing)
- Wash (10 minutes)
- Possible second application of toner (10 minute application and up to 20 minutes processing)
- Wash (10 minutes)
- Blowdry (30 - 45 minutes)
Potential Total Time for Service ~ 7 hours
Cons of Dark --> Light Color Corrections
- Often damaging to the hair
- Time consuming
- Expensive
- Can take more than one appointment to reach desired result
- Result can be brassy, particularly at different stages spanning multiple appointments
- Re-applying the toner at the salon every 4 - 6 weeks may be required
Color Correction Light --> Dark
Used for fixing:
Potential Steps in the Process:
Potential Total Time for Service ~ 3 hours
Cons of Light --> Dark Color Corrections
- Highlights that came out too bright
- DIY box colors for lightening that came out too brassy
- Unwanted shades of blonde, light brown or light red
- A blonde/light hair color when you want to return to your "natural" hair color
Potential Steps in the Process:
- "Filling" the hair by adding a base layer of color that will prevent the final shade from looking translucent and/or muddy, often a red shade (30 minute application and up to 30 minutes for processing)
- Wash (10 minutes)
- Applying the intended darker color (30 minutes to apply and up to 45 minutes for processing)
- Wash (10 minutes)
- Blowdry (30 - 45 minutes)
Potential Total Time for Service ~ 3 hours
Cons of Light --> Dark Color Corrections
- If darkening the hair from a blonde or light brown, the darker color will fade from washing over time (color safe shampoos can help)
- If the hair was damaged during lightening, applying a darker color can come out muddy and flat in appearance
- Damaged ends can soak up color faster, and appear darker than the rest of your hair
- Re-applying a toner at the salon every 4 - 6 weeks will likely be required
Cost
As mentioned, the amount of time a color correction can take is one of the reasons it is a more expensive service. When fixing or drastically altering someone's hair color, many unforeseen circumstances can arise that require special treatment and skills to address. Due to this, most stylists will charge for the service by the hour, and that hourly cost will vary based on years of experience, training and location. Below I've given cost approximations based on the timing outlined in the sections above.
Service |
Rough Cost Estimate |
Hourly cost of a color correction |
$100 - $300 per hour |
Color Correction Dark --> Light |
$800 - $2,400 |
Color Correction Light --> Dark |
$250 - $750 |
As you can see, performing a DIY hair color that ends up needing a color correction can cost you significantly more money in the long run than what was originally spent on the at home hair color. So choose your DIY hair color projects carefully!
