Scalp Build Up
Scalp Build Up
Author: Jenna White | San Francisco Hairstylist
April 13th, 2022
April 13th, 2022
Another term for "scalp build up" is dandruff, which can cause flakes to appear in your hair, on your scalp and on your clothing. More than 50% of adults are affected by this condition. Traditionally, consumers will turn to anti-dandruff shampoos for help, but there is a debate about whether or not those types of shampoos really solve the problem. There is also a debate about whether dandruff is a separate condition from medical ones like Seborrheic psoriasis. Outlining the differences between scalp conditions is helpful when trying to understand problems you may be having, and that's what I've done in this post here.
Types of Scalp Problems
Dandruff
In general, dandruff is flaking of the scalp. There is a debate about whether it is a separate condition when compared to the "medical conditions" list below. This is probably further compounded by only 4 - 5% of those with a scalp problem going to see a physician. The general definition of dandruff maintains that:
In general, dandruff is flaking of the scalp. There is a debate about whether it is a separate condition when compared to the "medical conditions" list below. This is probably further compounded by only 4 - 5% of those with a scalp problem going to see a physician. The general definition of dandruff maintains that:
- There is probably more than one cause
- It is age-related, rarely seen before puberty, common in the early 20s, with cases declining from mid to old age
- It occurs equally between males and females
- 80 - 90% of adults suffer from some form of scalp flaking, with about 40% of these having dry scalp and 30 - 35% having dandruff
Medical Conditions
For a visual, there is an image that compares a normal scalp, a scalp with dandruff, and a scalp with Seborrheic dermatitis in the book "Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures" here.
- Seborrheic psoriasis, as defined by the Mayo Clinic:
- Red skin covered with flakes and silvery scales
- Patches that may extend beyond the hairline or appear on other parts of the body
- Itching or soreness
- Seborrheic dermatitis (also known as Seborrheic eczema) as defined by the Mayo Clinic:
- Red skin covered with greasy-looking white or yellowish scales
- Skin flakes (dandruff) that may attach to the hair shaft
- Possibly itching
For a visual, there is an image that compares a normal scalp, a scalp with dandruff, and a scalp with Seborrheic dermatitis in the book "Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures" here.
Causes of Scalp Problems
Similar to whether dandruff and associated medical conditions deserve separate definitions, the causes of dandruff are also debated. Below I've listed both what is considered a cause and what is not. Two key points from the study "Some Observations on Dandruff", by A. Bernard Ackerman and Albert M. Kligman were:
"It seems likely that this great increase in aerobic flora of the dandruff scalp is secondary to the scaling and not the cause of it.” (p. 95)
" It seems likely that the yeasts multiply more abundantly as the amount of scale increases and that they are not in themselves responsible for the increased scale.” (p. 97)
Similar to whether dandruff and associated medical conditions deserve separate definitions, the causes of dandruff are also debated. Below I've listed both what is considered a cause and what is not. Two key points from the study "Some Observations on Dandruff", by A. Bernard Ackerman and Albert M. Kligman were:
"It seems likely that this great increase in aerobic flora of the dandruff scalp is secondary to the scaling and not the cause of it.” (p. 95)
" It seems likely that the yeasts multiply more abundantly as the amount of scale increases and that they are not in themselves responsible for the increased scale.” (p. 97)
Causes of Dandruff |
Not Causes of Dandruff |
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Causes of Dandruff |
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Not Causes of Dandruff |
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Common Ingredients for Anti-dandruff Shampoos
When you review the ingredients below, and consider the points outlined in this post, you'll see that the active ingredients in these shampoos may not be addressing the problem. Time will tell as further studies are conducted and science learns more about the nature of our scalps.
Active Ingredient |
Purpose |
Selenium sulifide |
Antimicrobial |
Zinc pyrithione |
ZPT - Antifungal |
Ketoconazole |
Antifungal |
Clibasole |
Antifungal |
Ciclopirox |
Antifungal |
Clobetasol |
Anti-inflammitory |
Sulfur |
Anti-inflammitory, Exfoliation |
Tar * |
Exfoliation |
Salicylic acid |
Cleanse, Detox |
Zinc carbonate |
Potentiator |
* coal tar, coal tar extract, solubilized coal tar, coal tar solution, polytar
Sources:
Some Observations on Dandruff, A. Bernard Ackerman, Albert M. Kligman
Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, Clarence R. Robbins
Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures - Chapter 13: Shampoos for Normal Scalp Hygiene and Dandruff, James R. Schwartz, Eric S. Johnson, Thomas L. Dawson
Some Observations on Dandruff, A. Bernard Ackerman, Albert M. Kligman
Chemical and Physical Behavior of Human Hair, Clarence R. Robbins
Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures - Chapter 13: Shampoos for Normal Scalp Hygiene and Dandruff, James R. Schwartz, Eric S. Johnson, Thomas L. Dawson