Author: Jenna White | San Francisco Hairstylist
July 1st, 2021
July 1st, 2021
This step-by-step guide is designed to help men figure out which products and styling tools to use. If you want to learn more about products beyond the overview I give here, you can check out my posts on Simplifying Hair Products and Simplifying Hair Products II to learn more. Before diving in, keep in mind that haircuts have a lot to do with the size (i.e. volume) of your hair. After getting a hair cut, you'll want your desired volume to be almost achievable without products. You'll then use a combination of products and tools to enhance the cut and take your look to the next level.
STEP ONE: ASSESS VOLUME
Most people feel their hair is (1) "too puffy" or (2) "too flat". Some are lucky enough to feel their hair is (3) "just right". If you're in category 3, you can skip this section and jump to STEP TWO below.
TOO FRIZZY/PUFFY
Heavier conditioners, co-washes, and oil or cream-based products are best for you. Their weight is great at smoothing volume and frizz. How much you use, how often you use it, and the concentration of the product's active ingredients will impact the amount you should use. When applying, you can always add more later if needed, but if you over-apply, you'll have to shampoo it out and start over.
TOO FLAT
Lighter conditioners (usually labeled as "volumizing") and hold or texturizing products are best for you. These products are known for adding structure and roughness that allow softer hair to rise, giving an overall fuller/bigger appearance. Less is more when using product on flatter hair. Too much will sabotage the affect and weigh hair down.
STEP TWO: CHOOSE PRODUCTS
There is an abundance of great products on the market, but it can be hard to tell the difference between them since companies use different verbiage and branding to describe the options. Below I give a general guide on common vocabulary used across the industry. Some of the best products may fall in more than one category, and you may need products across multiple categories to achieve the look you want.
PASTE/CLAY
Tends to be packaged in a jar. The consistency is very thick, ranging from toothpaste to spackle, and it will usually be tan, cream or grey in color (hence the name "clay"). The hold will add lift as long as you don’t use too much. It's great for texturizing the top of your hairstyle and laying down the sides. Needs to be heated up by rubbing it between your palms before applying, which makes it become translucent.
- Best For: short sides and short to long tops
- Not For: long hair, however, a small amount can be used on your ends and hairline to create a gritty "beach hair" look
WAX
Waxes can be translucent or opaque, and are usually in a jar. They tend to be the strongest hold in a product line. They add high texture with maximum hold, and can drastically elevate the look of a haircut.
- Best for: hair worn short on the side and short to long on top
- Not for: long hair (5+ inches), however, a small amount can be used to smooth flyaways around your face (for example, on longer pieces that fall across your forehead)
POMADE
Traditionally a pomade is a pure, thick oil. It's a notch below the hold of a wax, and is also designed to condense and control your hair. If waxes make you feel like you have too much product in your hair, then pomade is a good alternative.
- Best for: hair worn short on the sides and medium to long on top (4+ inches)
- Not for: long hair (5+ inches), however, a small amount can be used to smooth flyaways around your face (similar to wax)
CREAMS
Often in a squeeze tube. There are different consistencies and concentrates, but in general, it's thick and slippery. This product will make your hair smoother and adds shine.
- Best for: medium to mildly puffy or frizzy hair of all lengths with textures that range from straight to curly
- Not for: hair shorter than two inches that is fine or oily
OILS
Often in a glass bottle. There are different consistencies and concentrates, but it's commonly similar to the oils you might find in your kitchen. It adds the most moisture during styling, and smooths plus adds shine. A little can go a long way, so use sparingly until you've experimented enough to know what your hair needs.
- Best for: medium to highly puffy or frizzy hair of all lengths with textures that range from light curl to highly curly
- Not for: fine hair that that lacks structure and is prone to becoming oily
GELS
Usually comes in a squeeze tube or bottle, and can vary in consistency from light and watery (think hand sanitizer) to thick and sticky (think glue). Best for slicked back or spiked looks.
- Best for: hair worn short on the sides and short to long on top (4+ inches)
- Not for: long hair (5+ inches), however, a small amount can be used to smooth flyaways around your face (similar to wax)
OTHER PRODUCTS TO CONSIDER
- Dry Shampoos: On clean hair will give you volume and more texture. On dirty hair, can help you bring your style back if you don't have time to shampoo.
- Texture Sprays: Similar to dry shampoo, gives you a gritty texture that adds volume.
- Hairsprays: A stronger "hold" tool for hair. The most common misuse of hairspray is using it to hold hair down that is too puffy. Instead, try an oil or cream product to bring down volume. Use after styling to set hair in place.
STEP THREE: INCORPORATE TOOLS
Below is a breakdown of what happens to your hair based on the use of different styling tools, which give you control over your look. Knowing what tool to use is crucial to getting the style you want.
FINGERS
Styling with your fingers will result in an undone more "lived-in" look. If you have wavy or curly hair, it will relax the pattern slightly depending on how lightly, and for how long, you comb your hands through it. This is a popular choice because it's simple, and is one of the benefits of having short hair.
- Best for: hair that is less than 3 inches in length and wavy or straight
- Not for: hair that is 3+ inches in length, particularly curly hair, which requires brushing
BRUSH
BRUSH
You get more control with a brush, though how much depends on the type of brush. A dense brush, like a boar bristle, is great for smoothing and flattening the hair down. A more sparse toothed brush, like a paddle brush, will add volume to your hair when paired with a blow dryer. This option also allows the wave and/or curl pattern to relax and separate far more than just using your fingers. This affect is greater the more densely bristled your brush is. If you're looking for ways to enhance your curl pattern via a brush, check out #denmanbrush on TikTok.
- Best for: all hair types and lengths
- Not for: can be used by anyone, generally denser brushes are better for wavy to straight hair and sparser ones are better for curly to highly curly hair
FINE TOOTH COMB
You'll get the most control with a comb. Similar to a brush, the amount of control depends on the spacing of the comb's teeth. A fine tooth comb gives the most control, and is great for slicking back your hair or smoothing curls.
- Best for: straight to wavy short hair
- Not for: longer curly or overly curly hair, wide tooth combs are better on these hair types
WIDE TOOTH COMB
As mentioned above, a wide tooth comb gives less control than a fine tooth one. It's similar to using your fingers, but is better for smoothing out knots.
- Best for: curly to highly curly hair, plus all types of long hair
- Not for: shorter wavy or straight hair, which can get smaller tangles that require a fine tooth comb
CURL SPONGE a.k.a. HAIR TWIST SPONGE
These sponges come in many sizes and shapes, varying from square to rounded, and are for highly curly natural hair. The hole radius on different versions of the tool help attain specific twist patterns. Hair must be wet to prevent causing breakage, so best to use it after showering. Alternatively, you can wet your hair in between washes before use.
- Best for: hair that is one to two inches in length and highly curly
- Not for: hair that is longer that 3+ inches, is straight, wavy and/or has a loose curl pattern
Hopefully this guide has helped you understand how to achieve the look you want.
